Legal Village

Destination Kuwait

Posted 6/04/2008 by Ben Hallman

I'm writing this morning from a US military base in Kuwait. I know the name of the base but one of the ground rules for my stay here is that I don't disclose it. I'm also not supposed to describe what it looks like but I believe I can safely say this much: it is tan. All of it - the ground, the sky, even the soldiers in their pixilated desert camouflage uniforms. It's a big, tan, 24-hour truck stop for people on their way somewhere.

Speaking of which, my first roll-call for my flight to Baghdad is at 3 pm. It's sort of like flying standby, except that if I don't make this flight, my name will move up the list until I do. Once there, I will either travel by helicopter or bus (the 'rhino') to the Green Zone, where I meet a fresh new set of press people.

In the meantime, I have six hours to fill and I've already seen the sights: the gym, the McDonalds, the souvenir rug store. And I'm tired. I spent last night in a group tent with bright, 24-hour florescent lighting and a constant stream of men coming and going. At 5:30am I was aroused from my fitful slumber by a group of rowdy Australians looking for someone they enigmatically called 'Chicken Tikka'. If I see him or her, I'll let them know.

On body armour
The US Army requires that embedding reporters bring from home body armour, a helmet and tactical goggles. Where does one buy such equipment? I chose www.bulletproofme.com for all my body-armouring needs. The prices are competitive, the name direct. Andrew, a sales clerk, was helpful, quick to return calls and emails and subtle in his recommendations. For instance, he told me that I could buy my tactical vest in blue, or in 'coyote' - a sort of tan desert camouflage.

"There are two schools of thought on this," he told me. "Some reporters think it's smart to stand out from the soldiers. Others think its best to blend in." He paused. "We've been selling a lot of coyote lately."

The final tally: one coyote-colored vest with level-four ceramic plates, a pair of tactical goggles, which look like the pair of sunglasses I bought on Canal Street last summer for $10, and a helmet. The goggles and vest are fine. I bought the extra large helmet, which swallows my head and makes me look like Rick Moranis in Spaceballs. Also, it's heavy. Like someone parked a Toyota Corolla on my head.

If the Army guys make fun of my helmet or my head falls off from the added stress on my neck, I'll let you know.